tried to post this in Whitehorse

I guess I added too many pics, because my wifi connection got cut off, I guess I maxed out the bandwidth. So this is 3 days ago...

So I'm back in whitehorse, Yukon T. A long haul from Fairbanks in 48 hours, especially if you go through Eagle, AK to Top of the World highway, and ferry across to Dawson City. But WOW! was it worth it. I think it's safe to say Dante is back up to speed and ready for more. I was able to slow down to 35 mph fast enough for the 1000 lbs (approx) moose to miss me by 6-8 feet. I did a lil drift at a critical  downward sloping slippery S-turn, that under other mechanical circumstances could have meant potentially hitting a soft shoulder with 250 foot drop-off(there were a few trees, and another spot had a 1,200 ft drop-off). Saw at least 200 head of various sized caribou. Dawson City is friggin COOL! Like a turn of the century Wild West town with cars and tourism instead of horses and husky sled teams. Not a lot changes up here. It is WILD to say the least. 

Glad to be back on the road. I'm shooting to be down around Vancouver by weeks end (sat/sun?), and back in lower 48 next week. 

I thought I'd take the chance to use the WiFi in Whitehorse, cause it's the first I've seen since Monday, and it might be another day or two. Everyone following along, I'm doing well, and in very good spirits. Here's a few pics for ya, and as always, stay tuned...

North Pole, Alaska. Where street lights, McDonalds neon signs and fire hydrants sit atop candy cane striped poles.

This dry spring melt river bed would be the shee-aite on an ATV with firearms and a cooler, lol

Passed through this "major" stop on the way to Eagle at 5 AM. Only creatures stirring were the rooster named 'Attack Chicken' and the cook firing up the kitchen for breakfast later... What a trip!

This is a pic of the half of the pack that didn't scatter to either side... and I saw a half dozen different sized packs in 3 hour stretch of road. Good eats for local hunters, or the whole tribe!

Alternate caption: "Hey baby, nice RACK!"

btw, they were running along the road at close to 25 mph; pick your target, and make your shot count if you're into that kinda thing...

ok, so was there a Lieutenant Fitch? were they Alaska's wersion of Lewis and Clarke? Will have to get to the bottom of it...

Nope, the payphone does not work... It is only used for Superman to change in from time to time. If you want to make a call from here, you need a satellite phone

WOW!

So I drove for 5 and 1/2 days straight to get from Fairbanks to Vancouver(I did take the long way through Chicken Alaska, and Top of the world Highway). Staying with my cousin a few days to recuperate before hitting mainland USA. Need some sleep, but am ok, and will post pics soon

On the road again?

Well, I spent another weekend at the 7 Gables Inn, and have to say it is a great place to stay if you happen to be in the Fairbanks area. I called the shop to make sure we are still on schedule to get me back on the road. Kick-off expected early afternoon. Got some ground to make up, so I'll be heading for Chicken. It's a long drive, but then again the sun doesn't really go down, so I'm not worried about popping tent in the dark. This also means I'll be in sketchy cell coverage again, but I'll be back...
Before and after shots of Dante:

After the Arctic Circle run (before)

needs a lil more TLC before hitting the road for the return trip


GENTLEMEN, START YOUR ENGINES!
Round 2... stay tuned

11th hour

Going to be real close. They may not get the Durango fixed in time, which would mean another weekend here in Fairbanks. If that's the case, this week will have $urpa$$ed either of the last 2 months on the road... Very frustrating. I just want to get back on the road

Quick update

Was going to start heading south on Monday morning, but turns out Dante blew a head gasket, so I'm waiting for it to get fixed. They are also putting in a new water pump, a new thermostat, checking all the heads at a machine shop to make sure this doesn't happen again any time soon. As much as I like it up here, I can't wait to be mobile again. It feels like it's been a really long day, Oh wait! It has been a long day... It hasn't gotten dark in about 2 1/2 weeks. That's a long day!

Top of the world Ma! well, kinda

Made it!

I will have to come back and do another post on the Arctic Circle since I don't have the time to tell the whole story. The 197 mile, one way trip, took me 6 hours on the way up, and 4 on the way back. There are 414 miles (666 km) of "unpaved road", and let me tell ya, if you don't know it... Be Careful! Dips, swells, 20 mile patches of shale and gravel acting like the roughest grit sandpaper, and all sorts of pot holes, washboard moguls, sharp turns, dust, and oncoming hardcore industrial truckers. You don't want to make a mistake up here. Dante hit a set of dips and swells at 65 mph (15 over posted limit), and got all 4 wheels at least an inch off the ground. What a rush! I'm just glad it wasn't in a turn, or I would have been done for the day. This is No Man's Land, and it was a beautiful day. Only regret is that it was a bone chilling 60 degrees at the arctic circle marker... I jest of course, it was PERFECT! I arrived just after 4:20pm, and had a little celebration. just over 8,300 miles to get to this point. It is peak season up here with swarms of mosquitoes that have no equal, wondrous vistas accentuated by large fields of purple blooms, and an overwhelming sense of being alone in the WILD. The people that set up the trans alaskan pipeline do their best to keep the road up, but no one lingers up here. There is an outpost at Yukon River, which is probably one of the only places to get gas on the whole stretch; and I would not want to be the one to hold down that fort! I can't imagine being STUCK there during the winter. I can't even fathom trying to navigate that stretch with any kind of snow or ice in any vehicle ever manufactured. TOO many possibilities of something going wrong. In fact, I don't think even the best mushers could get from Fairbanks to Deadhorse in dead of winter. Ignoring the fact that record low is set at 128 below (with wind chill), the road between point A and B is BRUTAL.
To be continued... enjoy the pics

you can catch some great air on this section of road, but you'd better hit the landing!

The main reason there is even a road up here

View from Finger Mountain, with a wonderful array of TORs

It's Life or Death up here, no in between...

Sometimes you have to go with the unconventional horizon to get a better sense of the real "picture".

Arctic circle here I come...

Minor glitch in the plans. I had to cancel and shred a Credit Card. It seems I was simultaneously charging stuff in Oakland,CA and Anchorage, AK... Bank of America was on top of it, and cleared the charges off my acct, but I'm down 1 CC so far. I hope I have better luck with my other cards.
Love it when the weatherman s wrong, it's NOT raining today. It's now or never for seeing the arctic circle. If I can get up there and back without blowing a tire, I'll be heading south next... Back through Yukon to Prince George, then Vancouver-ish and along the west coast. I just got the National Parks Yearly pass, and plan on using it every chance I get. Here's a few pics for the road. Unfortunately Mt McKinley was overcast most of the day, only got a few good shots. But then again, you can find better ones on the WWW; lol. Wish you were here,

Wake up son! That was just 1 bail, we've got to do a dozen more before the day is done...

Looks fun AND dangerous... Can I take it for a spin?

Snow Plow Locomotive? WOW! Looks like the arms push the edge of the plow bout 30 feet on either side.

Denali just before the clouds moved in and covered everything up

Hurricane Gultch you say? Is there another way across? No? Ok then...

194 miles to go...

Need some sunshine up here...

It's been raining/overcast since Mon night. The ATV trip was cancelled, and I've been essentially recuperating. I didn't realize how beat I was from the 7,500 mile trip. It's been nice not having to drive since I checked in on Sunday night. Everything is close enough to walk to (except the movie theatre, which is on the other side of town). Tomorrow and Saturday seem to be the best weather days on the near horizon, So I guees I will head for McKinley. Next weeks forecast is RAIN all week, starting on Sunday. I think it's safe to say that the northern lights are hard enough to catch in twighlight, impossible in rain or overcast conditions... I don't think I will linger too long or push too far north at this time. The Last Frontier will retain it's wild and remote treasures under a shroud of mystery for now. I definitely will consider coming back up here at a later time (booking a flight next time). Anyways, Just wanted to touch base and let you guys know that I am well, and planning the final leg of the first half of my trip. I am ready for the return journey and all the things and people I will see along the way.

Anchorage at last

Survey: Doesn't this picture look better upside down? (i flipped the camera over, pointed and shot...)

The local surveyors, enforcers, greeters... Beautiful animals!

The dips, humps, pot holes, graded curves and gravel road repair "patches" are hard enough in the summer... Probably a brutal Ice BAJA racer track in the winter

Local tracker might say: these tracks are fresh, and it has a GOOD amount of meat to offer up...

Nice!

rear view mirror shot; drove parallel to that range in an East to West-ish heading
First real city since Calgary (although Juneau was pretty close and very cool, thanks again for the crash pad David). Nowhere to pitch a tent within at least a 1 hour drive, and hotels are RIDICULOUS up north in tourist season. The Fairfield in by Marriott, that my sister works for, was trying to charge $195 per night/single occupancy. A few weeks ago on the East coast, we were paying $59 for double occupancy. Oh well... I've been in a few cities before; I know how this works. Analyze the geography of the city. Know where the airport is, the city core: both real estate elite, commercial hotspots, and then the edges of that good ole American "zone". The spot where you find a lot of the marginalized people. Each city has them, and there is no set definition of standards within these zones as each city has their own puppet masters. They zone 'their' area to kind of coral the cultures, traditions, ways of life, religious and political views that they want to cut off... I pull over at the edge of town right on the water, and look at my options.
A. there are a LOT of cool day trip destinations here
B. I need to get National Parks Pass, do some laundry, and restock supplies
C. I miss hot showers, electric and wifi (preferably with a desk and chair)
Lets scope out some real estate for a few days... find a place that'll give me 7 days for same price as Marriott's 2. 8 short walking blocks from "downtown". I'll take it. I think a week up here is in order. The local at the desk is very cool, and as soon as I scope the very average (amenities wise) room with a king size bed, and drop a few things off, we started chatting it up. Rick is father of 6, and works 2 jobs. An avid fan of fishing, hunting, and other various other activities with his family. I tell him a bit about my traveling self... he interludes:
Hey, you want to tear up some ATV trails on tues morning?
-You got an extra?
My buddy does... I'm sure if you slide him a few bucks, he'd go with us.
-Hell yeah, I'm down
Do you know how to shoot?
-I almost brought my 30/30 Winchester lever... why?
Well, I like for every one in our crew to have a rifle just in case... Bears start at 900 pound adults around here. Some much bigger...
-(I think to myself my k-bar and the gas pedal on the ATV will probably enough for this trip, PROBABLY) If you got an extra, I know how to work it.

The chartered flights around here rule the skies. Probably scares off most of the aviary species. Tours range from 1 hour to Deluxe package. Some trips land on icebergs, others simply give you an aerial of McKinley and whatever areas your little heart desires. Not sure, but I suspect most of these charter companies run 2 or 3 eight hour shifts. I mean the light at this time of year allows for around the clock flights. Going to plan out my week, and get a few things done. Have no fear, Dante's mechanical glitch was a relatively easy fix. I still endorse Dodge power... Having a great time!

Back on the road

Dante got a new fan clutch, and seems to be running as good as ever. I'm camped out about 3 hours from anchorage, and am back in the groove. Good to be back in Alaska. this brief and rare wifi hotspot comes courtesy of the Smith family and their unsecured internet on the other side of the stream from my camp site. I'm so back logged on pics that I don't know where to begin... Here's a few, then I'm going to catch some zzzz's. It's 3 AM and it's true what they say... It doesn't get dark up here. One thing to hear it, it's another to live it! having a blast...

Beaver Creek. Barely!

Over heated about 50 miles from Beaver Creek. Popped the "Do not remove when HOT" cap, blew off some steam and filled up with cold water. Ran at about 30 mph the rest of the way. Going in to see a mechanic. Hopefully it isn't a thermostat otherwise I'll probably be in town a while. Only internet access here is Lobby computer, and my phone is out of range. At least I didn't get stranded out 'there'.
Update to follow

Skagway, whitehorse, destruction...

Skagway looks tiny and dark when the ferry dumps us off about midnight
Still twilight, hit the gas for 112 miles to Whitehorse Yukon
Nightmare border crossing turns 1 1/2 hour trip into 4
Busting my balls or doing their job? probably both. Dante is trashed, they pulled everything out
97 miles to go. I see 2 vehicles the whole way. 85 mph is exhilerating through this part of the country
Foxes, badgers, owls, wolverine? can't be sure about that last one even though the sun is about to rise
Crazy night, I'm exhausted
Whitehorse is booked solid, and looks depressing at first light
Moving on, but I have to sleep.
Come on Dante, just a bit further. I spot an ATV trail and he finds me a spot
Not even popping a tent
Layers, Christians cot, sleeping bag, side of the road... zzzzzzzzzzz
my phone says 4pm! wtf? I slept for 12 hours? Got to go
Gas station clerk says it's only 9:30 AM
Is the droid as tired and out of it as me?
Get out of here
WEST
Need shower and bed, Dante needs carwash and to be completely repacked... Later
Sign says "Patches of Gravel Ahead"
7 of em up to 1.5 miles long are considered patches? Strange Highway
Haines Junction
$4 public shower feels good
$12.50 lunch SUX. Are there any good restaurants out here?
Skeleton of a Shell station lays on the road. No one seems to want to bury it
Must be a sign to outsiders: Keep your Corporate formulas out of here
We do things our own way
Pass on through, take your pictures, and get going!
Loose my lunch on the side of their road
Another 1000 mile marker, the trip counter flips back to 000
I'm not sure if that was 7 or 8 times so far; lost track
Stop for a nap on edge of Destruction Lake. Cold, windy
Locals stand out
they're wearing t-shirts
Where did they put my winter parka? got to go
Beaver Creek? Maybe I'll hit a campground on Alaska side tonite.
back on the road...

Alaska!

Got an hour and finally a decent wifi connection in the gravel parking lot behind a Waffle Company restaurant. Thx for the free wifi guys... Just a quick post to say I'm doing well. Phone service is VERY spotty, and internet even more so. in short I'd like to give you my impression of Alaska so far:

I come into the peace of wild things who do not tax

their lives with forethought of grief...

For a time I rest in the grace of the world and I am free.

-Wendell Berry

WONDERFUL ferry ride so far. Have seen seals, bald eagles, orcas and a few other types of whales (although I have yet to get a good pic. seems they don't go breaching the water at full speed very often). Skagway tonight (pop. less than 1,000) then B-line to Whitehorse where I hope to recover for the weekend

will post pics when I have better int connection.

few more pics and another Dead song

Worlds only VW Beetle Chia Pet?

Cool town motto

Man and nature, side by side. Somehow this captures the thought that as fragile as green might be, it will eventually gobble up, overtake and outlast anything that man can ever come up with; and will burst out in laughter when we are long gone from the face of this planet

Will my "footprint" last the day? the week? I'm not sure, but surely the passing of winter will wipe the slate clean for someone else to tread upon this spot.

I see YOU!

backtrack pt 1

Homecoming... kinda
In order to complete my thought from the last post, I need to go back in time a bit. Yes, July 2nd was one of the best days of my life, but what led to that started a week earlier, maybe longer. Even though the sights, smells and sounds were spectacular, there was also a feeling that complemented and emphasized the feeling. I felt like I was coming home for the first time. It was hard to process why I felt like this, because I have traveled so much, and lived in so many countries and states. Why here?
Have top break it down a bit... First off, I heard a song I hadn't listened to in a while; kind of sets the tempo a bit:

Liberty- by the Grateful Deadhttp://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8k9mT6g-99E&feature=related
(classic Jerry slurring the words, you can google the lyrics if you don't know them already)
*Yes, CHOOSING this trip had a lot to do with it. Growing up a world traveler, I don't ever remember being asked if I wanted to live in this or that 3rd world country. Not that I'm complaining, I do attribute who I am today to the experiences that my life has afforded me. It just feels different when you have a choice.
*Staying in Athabasca with my aunt was truly a wonderful experience. I felt completely at home in a town of 2,700, even though it was the first time I had ever been there.
*Meeting two of my dad's cousins, and staying with them was another pleasant and unexpected experience. I mean, here I am knocking on the front door of someone I met once, briefly, years ago; yet I felt instantly welcome and at home.

*I'm not sure what I originally expected to find up here, but I have uncovered it all and then some. I have seen some of Canada's wondrous culture, landscapes, people, and now a part of my history it seems. Being that I was brought along for such a long ride, I never realized where it all started. Part of my family is still thriving here, I just never really realized it until I saw it with my own eyes.

I'm not saying that I'm packing up and trading in my citizenship (just yet), but I am really glad I chose to come on this crazy road trip. It has been equally a journey to my core as well as one to previously unexplored physical locations. Not even the recent downpour and fogginess can dampen my spirit as I trudge forward towards the arctic circle.

Driving along the copper river yesterday, I felt a strong connection to the river again. I hiked up to twin falls, and saw the snow melt to form the waterfalls that feed the stream, that join up with the larger river, that carved a path across flatlands and valleys as well as around the most immoveable mountain ranges. Unstoppable, wild, free; rushing along as if on a schedule. Occasionally taking the time to look at the constant stream of passers by in their metal chariots, but mainly carving it's path unnoticed, under cover of the lush landscape that it feeds. The trees that brought in the loggers that turned it into lumber to build the settlements, that boomed into towns and cities that house Canadians near and far, and continue to provide jobs and homes. Yes Water still sits on his throne, King of this land... surrounded by other would-bes that have gobbled up part of his kingdom. The oil monster dwelling both below and above, industry all around, passers by, servants all... all Hail the fundamental source of our livelyhood, and all the fruits of it's laborious journey. Would ancient Egyptians had such

an impact if not for the Nile? The good old US of A without the mighty Mississippi or the Missouri? And just as all of these mighty rivers have a source, this experience has been akin to finding the source of my river so to speak, backtracking to the beginning. Yes this has been one hell of a homecoming

 

Well, have to catch the ferry in a few hours. Alaska here I come!